Which belay device should I buy?
Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP
 Photo: Black Diamond Equipment
The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are
very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to
use. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and
secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see
photo).
The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. These teeth provide more friction in the event of a fall. They make it easier and quicker to provide the brake. The ATC, however, brakes perfectly fine, though does require more attention and responsiveness on the part of the belayer. The teeth also make the ATC-XP directional, meaning that, unlike the ATC, you can only load it one way. The slack side of the rope must exit the ATC-XP on the side with the teeth, while the climber side of the rope must exit on the side with no teeth (as in the photo). The ATC, on the other hand, is symmetrical and can be loaded either way. The teeth on the ATC-XP also provide a stronger brake when rappelling. If you are a little nervous about your first couple of journeys sliding down the side of a cliff, the teeth on the ATC-XP will help you easily brake your descent. Many climbers prefer the ATC /ATC-XP over the other popular belay device, the Gri Gri (below), because it allows the belayer to be more responsive to his climber. You can take in rope or pay out rope quickly and easily. The ATC family is also very durable, lightweight and easy to load. The downside of the ATC and ATC-XP is that you have to be an extremely vigilant belayer. The ATC and ATC-XP are not brake-assisted, as the Gri Gri is, meaning that if you are not paying attention or giving a proper brake for your climber, your climber could fall to their death. These devices require the belayer to be competent and vigilant. Luckily, they are extremely easy to use, so if you take the time to learn and don't get distracted by the hottie on the route next to you, they are completely safe. Chris Macnamara does some great gear reviews for SuperTopo and we suggest looking him up before you make any big gear purchases. Here is what he has to say about the Black Diamond ATC and how it compares to the ATC-XP: |
|
Petzl Gri Gri
If
you have ever climbed in an indoor gym, you have most likely seen or
used a Gri Gri. Indoor gyms usually opt to use Gri Gris because they are more dummy-proof than the ATC. They come with easy-to understand
instruction on how to load the rope etched onto the device itself (see
photo), and are assisted braking devices. But don't be fooled into thinking it is entirely safe! Many climbers dislike the GriGri precisely because it can lull a belayer into a false sense of security. In 2010, a climber leaned back at the top of a climb when his belayer was not providing a brake. The climber fell 30 feet before the GriGri arrested his fall. The climber broke his ankle and needed to be air rescued! (Source: AAC Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2010)
Indoor gyms also don't care about weight since there is no strenuous approach hike, so the fact that the Gri Gri weighs twice as much as the ATC does not really matter to them. It is easy to pay out rope and take in slack as the climber ascends on top rope. Although the Gri Gri is brake assisted, you should still always keep your brake hand on the slack side of the rope and positioned near your hip.
To load the Gri Gri, you open the device by pivoting one face. The device opens as if you are spreading your card hand for a game of poker. Once open, you thread the rope through the device so that the slack side of the rope enters on the right and the climber side of the rope exits on the left. Again, there are visual instructions on how to do this etched onto the device, so it is easy to understand. Even though it is easy to do, it is very important to do it right! If you load it improperly, the device will not provide a brake on the rope, and the Gri Gri will be rendered useless! It's simple, so don't skrew it up.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS consult the instructions provided by the manufacturer! Do not use this site as your only form of instruction! Don't be an idiot!
Watch this video (from Petzl) to see the Gri Gri in action. Be sure to watch all the way until the end, where they demonstrate a common technique used with the Gri Gri that is wrong and dangerous.
Indoor gyms also don't care about weight since there is no strenuous approach hike, so the fact that the Gri Gri weighs twice as much as the ATC does not really matter to them. It is easy to pay out rope and take in slack as the climber ascends on top rope. Although the Gri Gri is brake assisted, you should still always keep your brake hand on the slack side of the rope and positioned near your hip.
To load the Gri Gri, you open the device by pivoting one face. The device opens as if you are spreading your card hand for a game of poker. Once open, you thread the rope through the device so that the slack side of the rope enters on the right and the climber side of the rope exits on the left. Again, there are visual instructions on how to do this etched onto the device, so it is easy to understand. Even though it is easy to do, it is very important to do it right! If you load it improperly, the device will not provide a brake on the rope, and the Gri Gri will be rendered useless! It's simple, so don't skrew it up.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS consult the instructions provided by the manufacturer! Do not use this site as your only form of instruction! Don't be an idiot!
Watch this video (from Petzl) to see the Gri Gri in action. Be sure to watch all the way until the end, where they demonstrate a common technique used with the Gri Gri that is wrong and dangerous.
