Butterfly Knot

Applications: attaching objects to the center of the rope, attaching multiple climbers to a rope for travel over dangerous terrain, anchor building

The Butterfly Knot is notable because it is equally strong in all three directions: downward, upward and outwards. It doesn't slip and is more manageable than the Figure Eight on a Bight, as well as easier to untie after stress. The Butterfly Knot is mainly used in alpine climbing, where climbers travel in groups of three or more over hazardous terrain, while all attached to a single rope. However, we have found it useful for raising and lowering objects on a line, and for building anchors when there isn't much slack in your rope or cordelette.

Instructions below: