Munter Hitch

Applications: belay device replacement, rappelling, escaping the belay, passing a knot in a rappel, lowering objects from below

The Munter Hitch is an incredibly versatile knot. You can tie it anywhere in a rope, and it allows a climber to control passage of the rope through a carabiner with the same accuracy of a belay device. We have used it several times in place of a device for rappelling, and it is the best backup system in case you drop your belay device on a long climb. The Munter Hitch is an important part of the system used to Escape the Belay, it can be used with a Prussik Knot to pass a knot while rappelling, and it can be set up on an anchor as a simple system to belay or lower something from below without a belay device. Note that the Munter Hitch shouldn't be used regularly in place of a belay device, as it wears the rope and can cause kinks and twists.

Instructions below: