Figure Eight Tie-In with Safety Knot
Applications: Attaching the rope to the harness or another closed loop
You a Figure Eight every time you hit the rock to tie into your harness. It is incredibly important, insanely strong, and pretty easy to tie. You can also use the Figure Eight to tie off to any other closed loop, such as a tree trunk or a piton, in case of emergency retreat. Generally, however, the Figure Eight on a Bight is preferable, since you will most often use a carabiner to attach to objects.
How to tie:
Create a bight of rope, then twist it, creating a loop. Twist once again, and pass the end through the loop. You now have half a Figure Eight (useful for some applications in itself). Pass the end through your closed loop (harness loops) and follow its path directly back through the knot. Cinch tight. This is difficult to visualize, so make sure to check out the video below, where Cristina demonstrates how to tie into your harness using a Figure Eight and how to tie the important Barrel Knot.